The Kalmiopsis Wildlands is located near the southwest Oregon coast, headwaters for three amazing National Wild and Scenic Rivers. These rivers have unique geology, flora, and fauna, making them in turn incredibly exceptional places to explore. As a raft guide and whitewater paddler, I can’t wait to go boating in the Kalmiopsis. I feel strongly that they need extra protection to remain pristine, especially from mining.
The Kalmiopsis is Unique
An ecosystem is complicated and interconnected, it is difficult to understand how different aspects influence each other. While this holds true for the Kalmiopsis, a few of the area’s special qualities highlight the important connections between land, water, living things, and recreation.
The Kalmiopsis’ rugged landscape was formed from the ocean’s crust by a group of minerals known as serpentine. When serpentine weathers (wears down), it forms minimal, minerally scarce soil known as “Serpentine Syndrome”. Some plants must adapt by seeking nutrients from entirely different sources. For example, the rare carnivorous pitcher plant (Darlingtonia californica) digests insects to supplement its diet. Many plants in the Kalmiopsis are hard if not impossible to find anywhere else.
In turn, minimal soils impact river character. The waterways in and around the Kalmiopsis Wilderness are pristine. Rainfall either flows around serpentine to recharge the aquifer, or straight into tributaries carrying very little sediment. The Chetco River one of the cleanest drinking water sources in Oregon, supplying the Brookings and Hastings coastal communities. Pictures of boaters on the Chetco River look like the paddlers are simply floating in space.
Clean, clear, and cold water is then essential for aquatic life. The Illinois is one of only two rivers in Oregon (the other the North Fork John Day) without hatchery supplementation - salmon still travel unadulterated upriver. Salmon and steelhead are for other organisms like soils are for plants. Once they spawn, their bodies replenish the area with needed nutrients from the ocean. These fish grow up in the Kalmiopsis, then finally die where they first hatched, feeding fishermen and other life to provide for the next generation.
While this is a simple portrayal of a complex chain, each unique environmental trait informs and explains another to create the Kalmiopsis. These inimitable qualities are what makes recreation so viable and enjoyable.
Boating in the Kalmiopsis
Recognizing the Kalmiopsis' unique characteristics leads to fantastic experiences on fantastic whitewater trips. The Illinois River is a whitewater jewel. Challenging rapids meet the Kalmiopsis scenery for a true wilderness trip. The Chetco River is even more remote, requiring a difficult hike in. It provides an incredible number of technical rapids and crystal-clear water. The North Fork of the Smith River flows into California, who has designated this river and all its tributaries a National Recreation Area. People flock there to enjoy its cool water and paddle its gorges.
Boating adventures in the Kalmiopsis and Smith Recreation Area occur year-round. Many rivers are paddled in the winter. Baldface Creek, Rough and Ready Creek, and Josephine Creek (tributaries to the North Fork Smith, Illinois) are all rugged, special, and have pristine water quality.
More accessible sections allow locals and visitors to fish, kayak, and watch salmon. There is also great hiking in the Kalmiopsis. Among the multitudes of trails includes the Illinois River Trail or a hike into Carter Creek.
Keeping the Kalmiopsis Unique
To protect this extraordinary landscape and its amazing water quality, we need to conserve the whole watershed. Yet a substantial section of land (in the Illinois and Chetco headwaters) surrounding the Wilderness Area is unprotected and facing mining threats.
Called The South Kalmiopsis Roadless Area, the same geology making the Kalmiopsis unique also threatens it.
Wild and Scenic River Protection
Locals, businesses, and organizations have worked for decades to protect the Kalmiopsis. Senator Ron Wyden has proposed the latest piece, asking the public to nominate new Oregon waterways for Wild and Scenic River protections. Located in this unprotected South Kalmiopsis Roadless Area, Baldface Creek, Rough and Ready Creek, and Josephine Creek would be important additions. They are already deemed eligible by U.S. Forest Service studies. You can nominate them here (through January 2020).
South Kalmiopsis Permanent Mining Withdrawal
Like the creeks, the South Kalmiopsis Roadless Area has already proven to be valuable just as it is. The Forest Service recommended the area for wilderness in 2004. Later in 2016, the Obama administration closed part of this area to new mining for 20 years while Congress considers lasting protection.
A mine in headwaters can cause cascading effects down the entire watershed. According to the 2017 EPA report, metal mining was responsible for 50% of all toxic pollution in the United States. The 8500 acres of claims in the South Kalmiopsis would set back decades of protections. I propose asking our Congresspeople to finish the job, expanding and transforming the temporary mining withdrawal into a permanent one.
Because I care about Oregon water, I care about the land as well. Increasing river protections and permanently withdrawing mining projects reflects the intertwining land and water connection in the Kalmiopsis. It could also finally protect the South Kalmiopsis, keeping the entire watershed clean. Each natural quality in the Kalmiopsis in turn informs and links aspects of other. I hope that understanding why the Kalmiopsis is unique can help us make sure it is better protected in the future.
Originally Published: | Updated on
I first encountered Baldface Creek ten years ago while paddling down the upper North Fork of the Smith River in Oregon. Near the end of a long rainy day of paddling we stopped across from its confluence and marveled in the sheer beauty of this creek. A couple years later, my friend Kevin and I made the trek to paddle Baldface, but we had to turn back due to the massive snow drifts on our way to put-in. Last year, J.R. and I tried and were...
In April 2018 friends and I rafted 35 miles of the Illinois River (in southwestern Oregon, not Illinois), guided by Zach Collier of Northwest Resting Company. This Wild and Scenic River was named by the three Althouse brothers from Illinois who mined gold in this area. We encountered 149 Rapids between our launch at Oak Flat and our takeout near Agness (the confluence of the Illinois and Rogue rivers). Josephine County has a mean annual precipitation of 32 inches; we had beautiful spring weather. The area...